Phanganist went along with Leo Beer to go to visit Roots, a new restaurant in Ban Kai which by the looks of its food promises to bring a new dimension to the concept of dining on Koh Phangan.
Chef Alessandro was busy preparing food in his natural environment (the kitchen) so we were greeted by his business partner Dudee and his brother Paolo.
We sat down with Alessandro’s brother with a refreshing strawberry and ginger drink and he began to explain to us about the old traditional recipe used for just this humble drink…
‘It’s a 15th century recipe that we use to make what is called a ‘shrub’. First we boil the vinegar then we put in the fruit to infuse, no sugar is needed, then we strain, filter and make the syrup to then use in drinks’.
Interesting stuff and more importantly made with love and taste we may add!
After a quick photoshoot and change out of cooking attire our Chef Alessandro was ready to talk…
So tell us how you came to be on Koh Phangan…
I came for the first time in 2004 on holiday and then came back again to work in a friends restaurant. I had been working as a chef in five star restaurants across Asia, Kuala Lumpur, Indonesia, Malaysia at the Sheraton Imperial. I was the chef of three resorts in the Maldives and the Executive Chef of Anantara in Vietnam.
Back in those days is when I met Dudee in 2008-9 when we were both working in the Meridian.
I would always come back to Phangan as soon as I could and for as long as I could and since I made the decision to change my life when I was in the Maldives, I decided I wanted to do something for myself. So I decided to go to the place I love to do what I love!
What is the concept of Roots?
I use local ingredients but try something different with them. My food always looks very very nice but I keep it at a good price.
I put in all the effort because I am having fun, I have a huge amount of knowledge behind me. I have been exposed to an enormous amount of cooking and all kinds of different cuisines.
And where did the name come from?
I was looking for names but was not sure I should ‘classify’ the food as it is just ‘my food’. It’s my heritage which is mediterranean and european as that’s what I am interested in.
In the end every food is similar, it’s the roots of it all, an interexchange of information, so the food of the world. People classify things too much and put things in a box which is not what we do.
What inspires you style of food?
It’s a combination of everything I have seen and experienced, my own fantasy and everything around me.
I like to think outside the box, to twist things and do something new with new things I find. I fly a lot in my own mind!
You use local produce so is the food Thai?
No, I don’t classify it as anything. It’s more European Mediterranean but made out of locally sourced fresh goods.
And you now make vegan food don’t you…
We have a wide selection of vegan dishes, it is healthy and sustainable and I thought why not? It’s a trend.
We have fake scallops made with daikon root which is the same family as wasabi or horseradish.
The presentation of your food is like art! Is this important for you?
Art is a part of it so it looks good but most important is the flavour and the cooking techniques. Once you have mastered that part then you can play with the presentations and emotions.
I encourage guests to eat with their hands whenever possible also and not use cutlery.
What is unique about Roots compared with other restaurants here?
(Dudee politely interrupts) “Alessandro!!”
Ha-ha yes me but also you are going to have a five star elevated gourmet experience without all the attitude and big prices.
We do it out of passion, not to mark up, It’s for the love, not to get rich!
Here you have a chef who is flexible and who is open to be challenged. I will work with food allergens and cultures and I am a FSMS certified trainer (Food Safety Management System) and I am well prepared in a matter of any kind of dietary requirements, from medical conditions to ideological/religious.
Very often it’s a bit of trouble for people with specific culinary needs to get the food the way they want.
As well simply talking about freshness and safety of the food, I am quite sure that you can find the same standards I follow of 'food safety' only in a couple of 5 stars on Samui.
So as a chef, what food do you like to eat?
Tasty food! I go according to my mood, I used to eat a lot of meat but it’s much less now.
Where do you source your products?
We only source from Koh Phangan and over the years you get to know suppliers like fishermen etc.
What excites you about food right now?
I am starting to play with bitter flavours more and discover new ingredients which I have never seen before from the island and they are great!
I am experimenting on how to use my knowledge from life in the possibility that my kitchen gives me.
And leave us with your food philosophy…
Well. the food has to be real and honest. Something that is straight emotion but in the end always about the food itself.
Roots is located in Ban Kai on the road to Haad Rin surrounded by luscious trees with no other businesses around so you can enjoy some five star quality lunch or dinner in tropical peace that will not cost you thousands of Baht.
Bon Appetit!
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